Umarell occupies the former AYLA room on Richmond, at the point where Griffintown runs into Little Burgundy, from the team behind Mano Cornuto and Mano Figa. The name is the Italian word for the retired men who spend afternoons supervising construction sites from the sidewalk, and it first appeared as a small wine bar wedged between the two Manos before Mano expanded into it. This version has its own room: a bar built forty per cent longer than the one it replaced, laid out for talking across rather than sitting in pairs, a semi-open kitchen with a counter, and a covered patio. Brett Davis cooks small plates drawing on Italy, Portugal, Spain and France, with pasta portioned so you order more than one, and pizza out of the oven the previous tenants left behind. Rob Clarke writes the wine list.