Bière d'épinette Émile

Longtime Pointe-Saint-Charles brewmaster Barry Fleischer cut his teeth at Émile Bertrand, the now-shuttered diner where he took on a century-old recipe with all the risks that come with fermenting sugar, spruce oil, and yeast in glass bottles. After a fire, a sliced hand, and a lot of fizzed-out experiments, he moved his operation to Paul Patates, where he still brews daily before prepping potatoes and meat sauce. His two flagship sodas—one sharp and resinous, one sweeter and more accessible—have earned cult status, and he’s currently at work on a shelf-stable, yeast-free version aimed at sober-curious drinkers. Now in his sixties, Barry’s as hands-on as ever: training the next generation, restocking classic delis with his spruce brew and pickles, and quietly safeguarding one of Quebec’s weirdest, most enduring traditions.