Vin Papillon opened in 2013 as the quieter, greener offshoot of Joe Beef and Liverpool House, but over time it’s become something else entirely—less of a satellite, more of a touchstone. Originally conceived as a tribute to sommelier Vanya Filipovic and chef Marc-Olivier Frappier, the restaurant built its reputation on playful, vegetable-forward dishes and a wine list that championed natural producers long before it was fashionable. It’s where smoked carrot éclairs and ham with brown butter–drizzled cheddar became cult classics, and where a who’s-who of Montreal’s new culinary wave—Jessica Noël, Gab Drapeau, Alex Landry—cut their teeth.

Today, Vin Papillon is helmed by Fred Morin and chef de cuisine Alan Stewart, with wines now curated by Max Campbell of Deux Caves. The room remains intimate and unflashy, with white brick walls and a signature painting of an ocean liner—painted by Fred himself—looming over the open kitchen. The menu is short, seasonal, and slyly inventive, veering from wood-fired maitake to escargot atop escargot. It’s still walk-in only, still open at 3pm, and still one of the most quietly magnetic places to drink and eat in Montreal.