Miracolo: The restaurant, cathedral, temple, and theatre of Montreal's Plateau

Preserving the Plateau's Tex-Mex institution means proving yourself every single night.

No reservations, only walk-ins, a wall of natty wines, taxes and tips included, and a barstool for an anchor.

Jake Greenberg turned a pandemic side hustle into a Jewish deli centred on house-smoked fish, knishes, and a neighbourhood his family's been serving for generations.

First, a chip company came calling. Then came a year-long R&D process involving professional tasters and corporate NDAs.

Sydnee Wilson hauls grain, checks temperatures, and navigates the demanding physical reality of an industry that has largely forgotten its female origins.

Good faith, mixed results.