Croquette

Croquette occupies the merged rooms of Bonheur d'occasion and its neighbouring deli on Notre-Dame West in Saint-Henri, reworked into what its owners call a modern diner: warm wood, burgundy, retro lines, a U-shaped bar and banquettes, with a counter for watching the kitchen. Charles Dumais runs it, after six years in the Toqué! group and a stint as chef at Nolan, and the menu reads as diner shorthand handled with fine-dining technique. A charcoal-grilled burger with pepper onion compote, Charlevoix emmental and horseradish mayo. A club sandwich built on baloney. Guinea fowl with Quebec peas and gravy. Beef tartare with bone marrow. Triple-cooked fries. A dry-aging room for poultry sits in view of the dining room, and guests can choose their own bird. Charlotte Maurin handles pastry, and the wine list leans natural.