Riposte

A 46-seat restaurant in Saint-Henri, in the room that used to hold Nozy, opened by Julien Betancourt, Frédéric Bigras-Burrogano (front of house and drinks), and chef Matthew Finn, who cooked in British Columbia and Berlin before moving here.

The food is modern European with a Spanish lean: pintxos, gildas, jamón and marinated manchego up front, then plates like raw beef with a ras el hanout hollandaise, rabbit terrine with nectarine, and a Berkshire pork platter served with membrillo that's been aged two years. Finn works from a standing library of ferments, cures and sauces, so most dishes put something made long ago next to something picked this week.

The bar runs about 18 bottles, mostly fruit distillates, vermouth and brandy, and the wine list favours Quebec, Spain and Roussillon over Burgundy. Butter-yellow walls, red industrial accents, counter-height bar so everyone sits at the same level.