You could say Eric Ku has a problem with the way people think about eating in Chinatown.
Not the food, mind you—the duck hanging in Dobe & Andy's window still gets the two-day char siu treatment, the same labour-intensive air-drying process that his father Andy perfected when he opened the restaurant 42 years ago.
The problem is everything that happens after you walk through the door.
"Chinatown service is not just like, hey, take your order, drop it off, and see you again," Ku says, leaning on a table of his St-Urbain diner that's been his second home since childhood. "I don't like that. I want to change that."

Découvrez Montréal autrement. Rejoignez la communauté The Main.
Lisez cet article gratuitement.
Entrez votre courriel pour débloquer votre premier article et recevoir The Bulletin, notre infolettre sur la bouffe, l’art et la culture locale.
- 5 articles gratuits par mois
- Sauvegardez vos adresses et guides
- Infolettre hebdo The Main Brief
- Restez branché sur la culture montréalaise
Allez plus loin. Devenez Insider.
Faites partie d’une communauté qui soutient les histoires montréalaises indépendantes et célèbre les gens qui font vivre la culture.
Subscribe- Accès illimité à tous les articles
- Contenu exclusif & perspectives locales
- Offres spéciales et invitations à nos événements
- 10 % de rabais à la boutique
- Soutenez les médias locaux indépendants
Déjà membre? Se connecter



![The Best New Cafés in Montreal [November 2025]](/_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fthemain.ghost.io%2Fcontent%2Fimages%2F2025%2F11%2Fcafeminamina_1747403480_3633806228809203726_64427854713--1-.jpg&w=640&q=75)

![The Best New Bars in Montreal [November 2025]](/_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fthemain.ghost.io%2Fcontent%2Fimages%2F2025%2F11%2FHiba_08-1.jpg&w=640&q=75)



