The story of Eastern Townships landmark Cantine Ben La Bedaine

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In 2024, thousands of people cheered as a nine-metre-tall neon sign lit up the night in the town of Granby in Quebec’s Eastern Townships. Chez Ben, animated by a pulsing pattern of light, was once again feeding himself hotdogs over and over again after 20 years of disrepair.

“That sign was installed in 1974, back when business wasn’t going well following the move to our present-day location. My grandfather decided to invest in this massive neon sign to attract customers. Everyone thought he was crazy because it was so expensive,” remembers Jimmy Dubé, part of the third generation of owners behind a destination that’s worth the drive.

“But it worked. It’s part of the landscape now. When we asked for help with repairs, people from all over showed their support. It’s not just about our restaurant anymore; it’s a piece of Granby.”

As a symbol of all the memories, the people who’ve worked there, and the man who founded it back in 1950, Bernard “Ben” Dubé, the sign’s relighting would point to the years to come: The future for one of the Quebec roadside’s most iconic destinations, and its uniformed staff serving some of the best poutine around, would be as bright as neon.

Photograph: Audrey-Ève Beauchamp / @audreyeve.beauchamp

A family affair

Chez Ben has come a long way from its early days as a small food trailer. Today, it’s a robust multi-generational story for owners like Jimmy and the community.

“It’s amazing. I’ve been here for almost 30 years, and I’ve seen grandparents bring their kids, and now those kids are bringing their kids,” says Jimmy. “It has become a tradition for so many families. They talk about how their parents used to bring them here for fries and a drink, and now they’re sharing those same experiences with their children.”

“It’s part of the charm. The business, the uniforms, the menu—those things haven’t changed much over the years, and I don’t think they ever will.”

On his end, Jimmy has been in the business since he was nine years old and took over for his father in 2015 to work alongside his uncle (the restaurant’s second generation).

A cheeseburger (left) is prepped for the addition of cheese curds (right). | Photograph: Audrey-Ève Beauchamp / @audreyeve.beauchamp

Under their stewardship, the restaurant and its menu of burgers, fries, hot dogs and seasonal ice cream have expanded, modernized and even gone mobile by taking their famous poutine to festivals and events. That has paid off with awards, including the Drummondville Poutine Festival’s Fourchette d’Or three times.

“It’s the sauce that makes the difference. We’ve had our own recipe for decades, and it’s always consistent. That’s what people love,” says Jimmy.

Poutine as artwork. | Photograph: Audrey-Ève Beauchamp / @audreyeve.beauchamp

Poutine is, in some ways, a happy problem for Chez Ben that’s happened to many of Quebec’s greatest poutineries. As the restaurant continued to crank out poutine, and customers repeatedly asked for the sauce, the restaurant started selling it on-site. Given the volume they produce today, Chez Ben’s partnered with a company to keep up with demand. It’s now available at grocery stores.

“The recipe is a secret—even I don’t know what’s in it. I know where the envelope with the recipe is, but I’ve never opened it.”

As the restaurant continued to crank out poutine, and customers repeatedly asked for the sauce, the restaurant started selling it on-site. | Photograph: Audrey-Ève Beauchamp / @audreyeve.beauchamp

It’s all in the sauce

While it’s a simple dish, Jimmy believes people love poutine because it embodies the spirit of Quebecers who prepare it the right way.

“It’s pure comfort. It’s simple, but it can also be loud and fun, and it brings back memories for a lot of people. I think that’s why it resonates so much. It’s something uniquely ours, and we’re proud of that,” he says.

Two of Chez Ben's most seasoned employees share a tender moment, David Courtemanche (right) and Marco Desmarais (left); David's been at Chez Ben for over 20 years, Marco for over 30 years. | Photograph: Audrey-Ève Beauchamp / @audreyeve.beauchamp

It’s a dish of squeaky cheese curds and rich gravy that, naturally, takes centre stage at a restaurant like Chez Ben where their slogan reads “Chez Ben on s'bour la bédaine!” or “We stuff our bellies at Chez Ben!”

But this local landmark is about more than sustenance. Chez Ben is about crafting a memory, blending the nostalgia of simpler times with the vitality of a still-thriving family enterprise.

“Passion is key,” Jimmy says. “If you love what you’re doing and put your heart into it, people will see that. It’s not easy, but if you focus on your customers and your food, you can create something special.”

As Chez Ben prepares to celebrate its 75th anniversary in 2025, Jimmy, along with his sister and cousin, will continue to honour their grandfather’s legacy.

Expect events all summer long, Chez Ben’s food truck at festivals, and — in the next 10 years, hopefully, according to Jimmy — more locations to explore, while keeping the original location the way it’s always been.

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