Vol de Nuit reopened in 2018 with a clean break from its former life as a rough-and-tumble dive. What replaced it is something closer to a European cabaret: a deep red room dressed in velvet, gilded details, and ceiling frescoes that make time feel pleasantly elastic. Backed by the team behind Big in Japan and designed with architect Alain Carle, the focus is squarely on mood. Cocktails, wine, and local beer anchor the menu, with decent prices. Atmosphere does a lot of the talking here.