Chez Nino has occupied a corner of Jean-Talon Market since the early 1970s, when Biaggio Marcone, known to everyone as Nino, bought a small fruit stand a few years after arriving from Roseto degli Abruzzi. He built the business with his wife, Line Lafontaine, on a routine he never varied: be at the Central Market at two in the morning, open every box, keep only what passes inspection. Patricia Masbourian, a former employee, took it over in 2012 with her daughter Florence and left the early alarm clock in place. The shop supplies restaurants and specialty grocers across the city, and the produce on the counter is selected to that standard. In summer the operation spills outdoors into a 35-foot display, which is the version most people at the market know.