Phong Thach was born in Vietnam to Cambodian parents and has lived in Quebec since age six. Carlos Ortiz grew up in Montreal with Salvadoran roots. Together, they run Villeray's Bistrot Fortune, where Southeast Asian technique flirts openly with Latin American flavour: a hamachi crudo swimming in aji verde that somehow tastes like Thai green curry, a crispy pork salad built on the bones of a Cambodian pileup, a bò kho reframed as an elegant bistro plate.

The 25-seat room keeps things accessible with mains under thirty dollars and a short menu that changes when something beautiful comes through the door.