Gioia De bills itself as a cucina sociale, and the Old Port restaurant is built accordingly: plates meant for the middle of the table, a room that runs from long lunches to evenings that stretch, and space for up to 80 when the whole place gets taken over. Head chef Jamie Lee Gerosa, whose Italian roots trace to Campobasso and Morbegno, came up through Montreal kitchens with a background in pastry, and her menu reworks Italian traditions with fresh, local ingredients and house-made preparations. Burrata from Puglia arrives three ways, pastas run from campanelle with fresh peas and morels to mafaldine in white boar ragù, and pizzas include a mortadella-stracciatella-pistachio number. Oysters with negroni mignonette and hamachi crudo hold down the raw bar, alongside an elegant wine list and house cocktails.