Anita Feng opened her tiny Beaubien Est counter in 2021 as a Sichuan épicerie and noodle shop, and it quickly became a neighbourhood fixture: big bowls of mi xian rice noodles in numbing chili oil, shelves stocked with doubanjiang and dried goods, and a standing welcome from Feng and her sister Amy. The shop closed in late 2024 when Anita was diagnosed with ovarian cancer. A summer 2025 pop-up, Nouilles Sauvette, kept the flame alive during her recovery. J'ai Feng has since reopened in a leaner form: ten seats, no grocery shelves, and a monthly-rotating two-bowl menu now helmed by Christophe Yu, the Chongqing-born ITHQ graduate who has been steering the kitchen since November. Anita remains in the background, shaping the soul of the place. Her chili oil, a cult item from the start, is still available for purchase at the counter.