Little Italy has always been a neighbourhood that eats well, and Douro’s a keystone of that fact. The room of white tablecloths and azulejo tiling sets the stage for Portuguese cooking taken seriously.

The menu moves through the Iberian canon with confidence. Tapas anchor the start: grilled sardines, fisherman's clams bulhão pato-style, shrimp croquettes, fried squid. From there, the kitchen leans into the grill and the casserole with bacalhau prepared three ways, mixed seafood rice for two, jumbo shrimp, and a whole grilled mixed seafood plate. Meat options round things out, including pork and clams à l'Alentejana and charcoal chicken.

The $33 lunch table d'hôte is one of the better midday deals on the boulevard.