Faros has held its ground on Fairmount since 1986, part of the stretch that once anchored Mile End’s Greek commercial life and still carries traces of it today. The kitchen has long been overseen by Benny Kazerooni, who came up through the restaurant before taking it on himself, continuing rather than reinventing what was already working.

The focus is seafood, handled in the straightforward, ingredient-first style of a psarotaverna: whole fish sold by the pound, octopus, shrimp, and seasonal imports like langoustines or sea urchin when available. The daily display sets the tone, with origins listed and choices made in plain view. Around it, the usual spread of mezze—tzatziki, taramosalata, saganaki—fills out the table.