Birbante imports the Italian abundance of Milan to Montreal's Mile End

The Italian aperitivo—a beloved pre-meal ritual rooted in Turin’s 18th-century invention of vermouth—has always been more than a drink: It’s a moment, a way of life.

What started as a refined but frugal tradition gave way to Milan’s “happy hour” revolution in the 1980s, where all-you-can-eat buffets redefined the ritual into a social staple for trendy teens and budget-conscious students.

Today, we’ve entered the age of apericena: A portmanteau of aperitivo and cena (dinner), it's a phenomenon blending casual dining with a drink, served at prices and portions that defy its once-elegant origins. Some may lament the focus on quantity over quality, but this evolution reflects deeper societal shifts: a democratization of dining and a reclaiming of informal, accessible pleasures.