The Italian aperitivo—a beloved pre-meal ritual rooted in Turin’s 18th-century invention of vermouth—has always been more than a drink: It’s a moment, a way of life.
What started as a refined but frugal tradition gave way to Milan’s “happy hour” revolution in the 1980s, where all-you-can-eat buffets redefined the ritual into a social staple for trendy teens and budget-conscious students.
Today, we’ve entered the age of apericena: A portmanteau of aperitivo and cena (dinner), it's a phenomenon blending casual dining with a drink, served at prices and portions that defy its once-elegant origins. Some may lament the focus on quantity over quality, but this evolution reflects deeper societal shifts: a democratization of dining and a reclaiming of informal, accessible pleasures.
For readers who care about Montreal
Create a free account to read this story and access 3 articles per month, plus our weekly Bulletin.
![The Bulletin: Dance so hard that your body heat melts the snow [Issue #111]](/_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fthemain.ghost.io%2Fcontent%2Fimages%2F2025%2F01%2F%40by.rabz-12.jpg&w=640&q=75)
![The Bulletin: The 201st St. Patrick's Day Parade, Doom-Scrolling Performance Art, and Live Jazz in a Skyscraper [Issue #173]](/_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fthemain.ghost.io%2Fcontent%2Fimages%2F2026%2F03%2F639814571_1405587904703075_6311450862363727259_n.jpg&w=256&q=75)
