Café Gitana

Café Gitana has been pouring Turkish tea on lower Saint-Denis since 2001, and it remains one of the few rooms in Quebec where you can legally smoke indoors, thanks to its standing as a government-recognized tobacco lounge. That means shisha packed with Turkish tobacco and a humidor of Cuban, Dominican, Nicaraguan and Mexican cigars; cigarettes are still banned, and so is anyone under 18.

Tea comes from a stacked çaydanlık into tulip glasses, brewed light or dark to order. Turkish coffee is boiled in a cezve with the sugar settled before it hits the flame, and salep, hot milk thickened with orchid-root flour, arrives dusted in cinnamon. Beyond that sit Unibroue on tap, anise spirits from ouzo to arak, and a long whisky shelf. There's no kitchen, and outside food isn't allowed. Fridays and Saturdays bring live music and belly dancing.