L’Épicerie Pumpui is a crash course in the kind of Thai flavours that don’t get enough airtime in Montreal. Open since 2017, this tiny St-Zotique spot operates like a no-frills curry shop straight out of Bangkok: bold, unapologetic, and laser-focused on doing a few things exceptionally well. Chef Jesse Mulder, who cut his teeth cooking and eating across Thailand for years, runs the place with Jesse Massumi (Voro, Waverly) and Xavier Cloutier, an ex-engineer turned restaurateur.

The menu revolves around rich, aromatic curries, fried snacks, and stir-fries that rotate with the seasons. But some things don’t change—like the fried chicken, which comes perfectly crispy and packed with umami, or their Pad Thai, a Thipsamai-inspired version that holds its own against Bangkok’s best. Pumpui also doubles as a specialty grocer, stocking Thai pantry essentials alongside a lineup of teas, sodas, and that ultra-sweet, ultra-addictive Thai coffee.