Birds come off the gas rotisserie 25 minutes in, well short of done, then finish over charcoal under a baste built from the day's chicken fat and bones, cut with butter and miso. Piri-piri goes on last.

That extra step is what separates Frango's from most Portuguese chicken in the city, and it comes from a kitchen with fine dining on its resume: chef Arjang Sadighi ran the pass at HENI, which held this Little Burgundy room before him. The recipe's baseline came from Bocado Grill on the South Shore and got worked over from there.

Roughly 35 seats sit right at the entrance, hip-hop plays at volume, and the bar leans Portuguese and cocktail-driven, built with the team from Badin next door.