Maison An Omakase seats just eight people at a light-wood counter on Avenue du Parc, where chef An Doan, among the first women to lead an omakase in Montreal, works within arm's reach of every guest. Founded with her wife, Emily Nguyen Do, the restaurant brings together the chef's Vietnamese heritage and the Japanese technique she honed over two years of training in Japan, a pairing that surfaces in dishes like pho chawanmushi, a steamed egg custard perfumed with the aromatics of Vietnam's national broth. Tasting menus evolve with the seasons and lean on Canadian ingredients, each course arriving with a story about the memory or inspiration behind it. A short list of wines and sakes, available as pairings, rounds out the experience, along with sparkling non-alcoholic teas.