On the corner of Jarry and Henri-Julien in Villeray, Knuckles is Matthew Shefler's first restaurant: a converted dépanneur, furnished almost entirely in secondhand finds, that opened in October 2020 as dining rooms across the city were shutting down. The kitchen belongs to chef Vincent Lévesque-Lepage, formerly of Hoogan & Beaufort, whose menu centers on panzerotti, the fried Puglian dough pockets that give the place its name. Rosso and bianco varieties run $9 each, from a classic tomato-mozzarella to a MTL Smoked Meat with steak spice mustard. The broader menu spans raw arctic char with goat cheese and trout caviar, spinach gnocchi in butter and parmesan, a cacio e pepe linguine, and an 8oz flat iron steak frites with madeira sauce. Shefler handles a natural wine list sourced partly through Ward & Associates. Weeknight specials keep things lively: all-you-can-eat cacio e pepe on Tuesdays for $20, $10 wine pours on Thursdays.