A Plateau chophouse flips to Bouillon Albert, a 19th-century Paris-inspired eatery

Simple and classic dishes drenched in garlic butter, broken bread, aperitifs, and wine—these aspects defined bouillons of 19th-century Paris, a type of restaurant where quality food could be served quickly and at an affordable price.

They were historically regarded as a form of protest in their day; after all, shouldn’t everyone be able to eat like the bourgeoisie?

So, Bouillon Albert asks in the Plateau, why mess with a good thing?

Filling the space left behind by the departure of the restaurant Hachoir on Saint-Denis Street, this modern bouillon is the latest offering from Groupe Grinder, open as of October 7th, 2024.

Its focus is undoubtedly French, and true to its inspirations, it’s by no means snooty or highbrow. Here, it’s all rough-hewn Parisian nostalgia, where servers ‘uniformed’ in white T-shirts and jeans whisk around tables’ tight corners to serve food devoured by everyone on deck, by hand, and with maybe a little too much wine.