Plume occupies a former commercial bakery on Fairmount Ouest that dates to 1967, and the Mile End address suits the project well. Behind it are Raphaël Leclerc-Gileau and Brigitte Emond Serret, who met at Bouillon Bilk a decade ago and spent years there before going their separate ways through the city's better kitchens. Raphaël, trained in both cooking and pastry, was sous chef at Bar George before moving into private chef work; Brigitte built her sommellerie practice at Candide and Panacée. Together they've built a room of 48 seats, including a 12-seat bar, around an à la carte format, with a tasting menu in the works. The cooking is seasonal and locally minded, the wine list leans toward small producers, and the dessert section gets serious attention.