Gilles Jourdenais didn’t just grow up at Marché Atwater—he practically grew with it. What started as his parents’ modest shop selling honey, eggs, and pipe tobacco became, under his watch, one of the most iconic cheese counters in the city. He took over at 18, renamed it Fromagerie Atwater, and set out to learn everything he could—by taste, by book, and by talking to anyone who knew more than he did. Decades later, the man in the beret presides over a staggering selection: around 1,000 cheeses (350 from Quebec), plus fine foods, charcuterie, and hundreds of local microbrews. He still works the floor, cracking jokes, suggesting pairings, and calling out greetings with the energy of someone who genuinely loves what he does. The store now spans two locations, with his daughter Catherine set to take the reins. But at the original stall, the legacy remains hands-on—mop, apron, and all.