Part cocktail bar, part oyster bar, part restaurant, jjacques occupies a windowless room off rue Notre-Dame-des-Anges in Québec City's Saint-Roch, with no clocks, no signage on the door, and no particular interest in reminding you what time it is. The theme is the golden age of travel, with the cocktail menu organized by mode: Maritime for bitter and complex, Aérien for sour and balanced, Ferroviaire for spirit-forward, and Première Classe for the high-rollers (a French 75 built on Citadelle Réserve gin and Henriot Champagne; a margarita made with Fortaleza Blanco and Grand Marnier Louis-Alexandre). The food menu leans seafood, from single oysters at $3.50 each to a three-tiered tower at $200, with Quebec cheeses from La Station, Île-aux-Grues, and Nouvelle France on the side. The wine list runs deep into Burgundy, Champagne, and Austrian white territory, with a solid Quebec section. Kitchen closes at 1 a.m.; oysters run until 3 a.m. on weekends.