La Marelle: Don’t even think of boxing this Mile-Ex restaurant in

With its chef's El Salvadorean roots and Eurocentric tutelage, as many fine wines as there are cold pints of 50, and versatile vibes, La Marelle is a sense of play incarnate.

J.P. Karwacki

J.P. Karwacki

February 23, 2024- Read time: 8 min
La Marelle: Don’t even think of boxing this Mile-Ex restaurant in Brendan Lavery-Breier and chef Carlos Melgar behind the line, who co-own the Mile-Ex restaurant La Marelle with Taylor D’Ottavi. | Photograph: Sarah-Jane Patry

Riding the slow but sure rolling waves of arrivals in Mile-Ex like Taverne Atlantic and Bar Wills, La Marelle’s like a candlelit lifeboat on its stretch of Beaubien Ouest.

An unassuming exterior leads you right into a long wooden bar facing an open kitchen running the length of a main room—an inheritance from the space's previous tenant, Le Diplomate—and passage to a spacious casual dining room in the back, skylit by day and candlelit by night.

A new project from Maison Publique and Salle Climatisée alumni Brendan Lavery-Breier, chef Carlos Melgar, and Taylor D’Ottavi, La Marelle is what you'd call the modern definition of a 'Montreal restaurant' through and through.

...All three of our experiences show how the city can bring people together, most importantly through hospitality. I think that’s a beautiful facet of our story.
Member-only story

Unlock Montreal’s stories. Join The Main community.

Read this story free.

Enter your email to unlock your first article and get The Bulletin — our weekly roundup of food, art, and local culture.

  • 5 free articles per month
  • Save your favourite places & guides
  • Weekly newsletter The Bulletin
  • Stay connected to Montreal culture

Become an Insider.

Join a community that supports independent Montreal stories and celebrates the people shaping its culture.

Subscribe
  • Unlimited access to all stories
  • Exclusive features & local insights
  • Special offers and event invites
  • 10% off in our shop
  • Support local storytelling

Already a member? Sign in

Related articles

Taking over Icehouse means inheriting a decade of expectations
J.P. Karwacki

Taking over Icehouse means inheriting a decade of expectations

Preserving the Plateau's Tex-Mex institution means proving yourself every single night.

Bar Minou is the kind of place you want to spend all night in
J.P. Karwacki

Bar Minou is the kind of place you want to spend all night in

No reservations, only walk-ins, a wall of natty wines, taxes and tips included, and a barstool for an anchor.

Chez Greenberg: The honest Mile End deli that smoked salmon 'n' knishes built
J.P. Karwacki

Chez Greenberg: The honest Mile End deli that smoked salmon 'n' knishes built

Jake Greenberg turned a pandemic side hustle into a Jewish deli centred on house-smoked fish, knishes, and a neighbourhood his family's been serving for generations.

How Nora Gray spun its spicy pepperoncini and focaccia into a Miss Vickie's chip
Ivy Lerner-Frank

How Nora Gray spun its spicy pepperoncini and focaccia into a Miss Vickie's chip

First, a chip company came calling. Then came a year-long R&D process involving professional tasters and corporate NDAs.

One of Montreal's few female brewers runs the show at 4 Origines
Annisa Burgos

One of Montreal's few female brewers runs the show at 4 Origines

Sydnee Wilson hauls grain, checks temperatures, and navigates the demanding physical reality of an industry that has largely forgotten its female origins.

Bottomless Pete Reviews: Bona Fide
Bottomless Pete

Bottomless Pete Reviews: Bona Fide

Good faith, mixed results.