A (mostly) spoken history of Mano Cornuto, Griffintown's unexpected Italian institution

Tyler Maher isn't so sure when I posit that Mano Cornuto, in its own way, changed the game in Montreal's dining scene.

"I don't know who you're talking to, bro," he laughs, "but I'll take the smoke."

Fair enough. But it's hard to argue with: In August 2019, four guys who'd barely worked together—Tyler from Foxy, Vito Ciocca and James Baran from the Garde Manger crew, and Alex Ragoussis from Crew Collective & Cafe—opened an Italian café on a then-dead corner in Griffintown. The budget was tight enough that they were doing their own buildout, counting foot traffic at 6 a.m. like amateur anthropologists, trying to convince themselves this weird little space could work. They had maybe eight staff total when they embarked.