It's always "they don't make it like they used to" or "it was better in the old days."
That's true sometimes, more so when it comes to a recipe. After all, it'll be hard to replace a master once they've closed up shop. While it's not impossible to find young blood to replace a beloved casse-croûte, what happens if Montreal's time-honoured producers of bagels or smoked meat let their craft disappear with them? These can be complicated crafts in a time that wants things yesterday.
It makes someone like Matthew Berry more than a rarity. At the Pointe-Saint-Charles butcher shop Taglio he co-owns with his partner David Malka, he’s bringing back a way of doing things that the city is losing—the kind of butchery that involves patience, precision, and respect for the craft for food that doesn’t rush, cut corners, or compromise.
Keep reading “Taglio revives the old butchery ways with a 50-year-old Pointe-Saint-Charles smokehouse”
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