What’s middle age, anyway? Definitions vary for humans and for restaurants, but talking about the latter has been preoccupying the food world.
New York-based writer and podcaster Matt Rodbard describes a middle-aged restaurant as one that “opened to serious buzz, landed great press, and then evaporated from the conversation—not because (it) got worse, but because the conversation moved on.”
He and New York magazine food critic Matthew Schneier have spent a lot of time discussing beloved spots that got better over the years, though fewer people were paying attention to them.
To put it another way: too old to be news, and too young to be history.
Montreal’s restaurant scene attests to this phenomenon. Lists like Canada’s 100 Best (now twelve years old itself), the Michelin guide and World’s 50 Best for North America all favour younger places.
Pour ceux qui ont Montréal à cœur
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