Walk into the Plateau’s Dek Sen, and you’re greeted with the aroma of lemongrass, galangal, and chilli paste. Since 2023, this restaurant (Montreal’s first halal Thai restaurant) has been cooking up dishes that taste as if they were imported straight from the streets of Bangkok. The khao soi arrives fragrant and hearty, the papaya salad snaps with heat and brightness, and the curries carry the weight of spices that go straight to your head.