Rites Berbères has been on rue de Bullion in the Plateau since 1985, run by Mohand Yahiaoui, who learned Berber cooking from his mother in Kabylie. The room is dressed in Kabyle décor with Kabyle music, and a vine-covered back terrace serves in warmer months. Couscous is the menu's centre: eight versions ranging from vegetable-only to poulet, merguez, agneau, the Kabyle (lamb and merguez), Tigzirt (lamb and chicken), and the house Maison (lamb, chicken, and merguez). Méchoui, whole roasted marinated lamb shank, is available for groups on advance order. Starters include brik à l'oeuf, sardines grillées, tchekchouka piquante, pois chiches au cumin, and salade berbère. Chorba and lentil soup to start; house desserts and mint tea to close. BYOW.