Bryan Rajarison was eight years old when he started cooking, and the recipes he grew up on form the backbone of 325F, the only authentic Malagasy restaurant in North America. Opened on rue Masson in Rosemont when Bryan was twenty-three, the room is small by design: natural wood, warm tones, maybe twenty seats. Madagascar's cuisine carries centuries of migration in it, East African, Indian, Chinese, French, Arabic, and the menu reflects all of it without making a fuss. The Soupe Tamatave is a fragrant broth with wontons and smoked pork. The ravitoto, cassava leaves slow-cooked with pork belly and coconut milk, stops first-timers cold.