Set on a corner of Vieux-Lachine that's been feeding the neighbourhood since Louis Legault opened his épicerie here in 1930 (you can still see his name pressed into the concrete floor), Comptoir St-Jo comes from owners Isa Lora and Émilie Sirois of Bagel St-Lo fame, alongside sommelier Marco and chef Gabrielle. They renovated the century-old building, and leaned into its bones.

The result is a café, wine shop, and gourmet grocery that feels like it was always supposed to exist: bagels built for the riverfront walk nearby, smoked salmon from Atkins Gaspé, croutons maison, a chicken ponzu salad that has no business being this good at a neighbourhood counter. Marco picks every bottle himself—natural wines, local ciders, skin-contact options—and the fridges are stocked for picnic emergencies. Steps from the canal, it doubles as the best reason to arrive in Lachine hungry.