Mama Khan serves Peshawari cuisine, which puts it in a category of its own on the Plateau. The chapli kebab, a hundred-year-old family recipe made with veal mince, crisped outside and tender through the middle, is the dish people come back for. The karahi, chicken or lamb cooked down in tomatoes, paprika and green chilies, is simpler than it sounds and better than it has any right to be. The brick-walled basement room has a terrace out back and the unhurried feel of somewhere run by people who actually want you there. Owner Abdul Raziq Khan and his mother Misraj have built something that goes well beyond feeding people.