You could say Eric Ku has a problem with the way people think about eating in Chinatown.
Not the food, mind you—the duck hanging in Dobe & Andy's window still gets the two-day char siu treatment, the same labour-intensive air-drying process that his father Andy perfected when he opened the restaurant 42 years ago.
The problem is everything that happens after you walk through the door.
"Chinatown service is not just like, hey, take your order, drop it off, and see you again," Ku says, leaning on a table of his St-Urbain diner that's been his second home since childhood. "I don't like that. I want to change that."
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