Lesley Chesterman spent nearly three decades as the Montreal Gazette's restaurant critic, eating her way through the city's dining rooms with a rigour few could match. These days she writes on Substack, travels widely, and remains a sharp observer of restaurant culture in the country.
Earlier this year she watched the Michelin ceremony in Portugal live on YouTube, saw Belcanto get passed over for its third star despite what she considered a flawless meal, and came home with some hard questions about where the pursuit of culinary excellence is heading.
With Michelin's second Quebec guide dropping in days—and Montreal’s restaurant scene no doubt quietly holding its breath—I connected with Chesterman to get her read on the guide, the city, and whether we're asking the right questions about both.
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