Over the past few years, the international wine fair Raw Wine has made Montreal a customary stop alongside New York, Paris, and Tokyo. My first time at the Quay in 2024, I witnessed a brio of oenophiles packed into the terminal and encountering punchy, herbaceous, and orchestrally blended fates.
Through sips of ancestral and vanguard bottles of wine, I ran into local restaurateurs, provincial growers, and Quebec makers that were insistent on letting me know that wine in Quebec, especially here in Montreal, was a serious business.
The question is why.

It starts with climate
Due to climate chaos, Quebec has become an inviting landscape for winemakers. After that immersive Raw Wine experience, I went 40 kilometers out to Oka to spend five days with Hugo Grenon, the proprietor of Domaine Polisson. The former geologist is regarded as one of the early pioneers of Quebec wine.
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