Sans Instagram countdown, soft launch announcement or carefully timed press push, Bistrot Boisselet opened its doors in Little Italy around the corner from Jean-Talon Market, and simply got to work.
"A good friend of ours that's worked in the industry for a long time always told us: if the food's good, people will come," says Taylor D'Ottavi, who runs the front of house alongside partners John Hale and Antoine Denis of Le Plongeoir. "So we rolled with that."
For a team with a combined résumé that includes the likes of Liverpool House, Salle Climatisée, and Maison Publique, opting out of the restaurant industry's implicit hype machine was deliberate, but it makes more sense the longer you sit with it because Boisselet, at its core, is a restaurant built on the premise that the work speaks for itself. And the work, in this case, belongs largely to chef Darcy Gervais-Wood.
D'Ottavi is quick to say so. Throughout the conversation, he keeps returning to Gervais-Wood and his training, precision, and particular way of knowing when a dish needs a modern tweak and when it needs to be left alone.
"I think now is the time to really give him his flowers," he says, "because the food has been coming out fantastic." The endorsement carries weight, and sets the tone for what Boisselet is quietly trying to do: put a talented chef, long working in the background of some of the city's most respected kitchens, front and centre.



"If the food's good, people will come"
Gervais-Wood came up through Maison Publique, spent time in Paris kitchens like Septime, and most recently held a senior position at the Four Seasons. His menu at Boisselet reads short and confident: gougères stuffed with smoked cheddar, mushroom velouté, steak au poivre, boudin with pommes purée, Montebello trout, a chocolate tart. Five appetizers, five mains, two desserts, all secured in place by a foundation of airtight cooking.














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