A small room on rue Morley in Greenfield Park, a few steps from Mail Champlain, Bocado is family-run and the owner works the floor, so a seat at the bar tends to come with conversation and a view of the open kitchen.

The chicken is grain-fed and hormone-free, sold by the thigh, breast or half, or as a whole-bird family meal with homemade fries and salad, piri-piri alongside. Around it sits the rest of the Portuguese canon: pastéis de bacalhau, grilled chouriço, sardines, blood sausage with brandy, octopus, bacalhau com natas. The Bocado poutine splits the difference between two grill cultures. Portuguese wine comes off a private import list. Call ahead, there aren't many tables.