Bánh Mì Cu Lắc (Mile End)

A bánh mì counter that sells through a window onto the Bernard sidewalk, sharing a kitchen with the Ping Pong Club next door. It's the second address for Wendy Tran, who ran Cu Lắc as pop-ups and catering out of a home kitchen before opening on Bishop. Tran grew up in Vietnam and found Vietnamese restaurants here stuck on recipes from decades back, so her sandwiches pull from wherever: jerk-spiced oyster mushrooms with mango chutney and Quebec corn, lapsang-infused chicken with chipotle mayo, miso chicken, and a classic of slow-roasted pork belly with chả lụa and pâté. The pork and the lapsang chicken stay put; everything else rotates, with limited runs lasting about two months. Chef Giang Pham runs the kitchen. The baguette follows their own recipe, baked with local flour by Joe la Croûte at Jean-Talon. Open through winter, and available for catering.