David Fuoco took over a century-old house in Saint-Calixte and turned it into a somehwat unlikely Italian restaurant: The dining room still has the original wood fixtures and Victorian bones, but the menu is straightforward: house-made pasta (gnocchi ricotta with rosé sauce and pancetta, ravioli stuffed with braised beef), wood-fired pizza, and a grill program that runs from chicken supreme to a 55-ounce tomahawk steak.

The mozzarella di bufala—made by David's brother Jason on the family farm—shows up everywhere, from caprese to poutine. For bigger appetites or groups, there's the Misto Carne: a 14-ounce steak, lamb chops, sausages, and chicken, all on one platter.