Some restaurants try to make a splash. Molenne just feels like it’s always been here. Housed in a former hay depot from Montreal’s first racetrack, this brasserie is built on layers of history. Banquettes salvaged from Théâtre du Nouveau Monde, chimney plaques repurposed as decor, a 32-year-old fridge given a second life—everything about Molenne leans into the past while pushing forward.

But don’t mistake it for a nostalgia act. Chef Louis-Joseph Rochefort (Attica, Australia) is at the helm, turning brasserie staples into something sharper: black cod in shiitake broth, braised cabbage with escargots, white charcutière sauce. The bar, run by Gia Bach Nguyen (Gia), pours cocktails on tap, while a 5,000-bottle wine cellar stocks everything from rare vintages to solid $50 picks.