On a Tuesday evening in early April, Bistrot Fortune opened without announcement, and unless you knew to look, you would have walked right past it. That wasn’t by design, it just happened that way, but Phong Thach knew the address.
He had opened his first restaurant there in 2007, cooked for years, and eventually moved on. When the space came available again, he came back—his time with Tony To as chef de cuisine and Carlos Ortiz, his longtime collaborator from Red Tiger, running the floor and the wine. Thirty seats, dinner only from Tuesday through Saturday with a back patio on a plot of asphalt that housed coming-soon parties for friends ahead of the big reveal.
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